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Hot Springs

Hot Springs
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Even back in the 1880s and 1890s, the people who came to Hot Springs had money and good taste, were accustomed to eating in upscale restaurants, and demanded the same quality while they were on vacation. As a result, the town has had over a century to develop its dozen very good restaurants. Several of the best restaurants in Arkansas are in this one little town. The older of them have their own illustrious history, having served Babe Ruth, Al Capone, Bugsy Moran, Franklin Deleanor Roosevelt, George H. W. Bush, Marilyn Monroe and dozens of other well known visitors. It's a small town, and the restaurants are within walking or horse drawn carriage distance of The Arlington. On a Friday or Saturday night when Oaklawn is in session, you'll want to either make reservations or eat early, around 5 - 6:00 pm.
Windows On The Park is the hub of the Hot Springs restaurant wheel. It's the oldest and most elegant. You must eat at least one meal at this award winning restaurant. We like to time our visits to catch the Friday night Seafood Buffet, shown above right. This is only one table. There are others behind us with more seafood, breads, salads and desserts. This may be the most extravagant seafood feast you've ever seen. There's the Sunday Brunch Buffet, almost as bounteous. It offers everything from Eggs Benedict to Roast Fish to Peach Cobbler. However, the standard dinner menu is also outstanding. They serve great breads, soups and desserts. The bread comes courtesy of the house, but whatever is their Soup of The Day, order it. We like their Scallops. We've had the Scallops at every top seafood restaurant on the East Coast from Key West to Halifax and these are competitive with the best. They are large, sweet and well prepared. However, the Crab Cakes are their equal. If you're heading on to Texas, we'd wait until then to order steak, but if Hot Springs is a trip by itself, by all means try it here. Theirs don't beat San Antonio's, but they're very, very good. The chefs here obviously know how to choose their cuts and fix them. As you eat here, look around and realize that, while the Arlington has been remodelled several times, this restaurant has remained unchanged since its 1923 update. The number of times they spent weeks here and ate at this restaurant every day makes it likely FDR, Marilyn Monroe, Al Capone or Babe Ruth sat in your very chair at your table at least once. Service here is also very impressive. Often you tip grudgingly, but here you want to reward your server for going beyond expectations. One suggestion : ask the house to recommend your glass of wine. We've had some of our best here.

Rolando's is your next must stop in Hot Springs. It's right across the street from the Arlington and up two doors. Rolando's is unique. It's an Ecuadorian/Salvadorian restaurant with elements of Cuba and Guatamala. Original Ecuadorian artwork adorns the dining room walls. A patio upstairs features Tiki torches, a fireplace and backlighting off a 60 foot rock wall. Rolando's starts you off with the traditional chips and salsa. We didn't think the chips were a match for those at the best Mexican restaurants we've visited, although they come in blues, reds and greens, which is different. However, the black bean and corn (sans tomatoes) salsa is something else. You have not had this before. We loved it. For appetizers, the Sopa de Cameron (rice, tomato, lime juice, green pepper, green onion, cilantro) is bright and lively. But the showstopper is Queso Flamado (Monterrey cheese, Mexican charizo, served in a molcajete and in full flame). If you're coming in for lunch, the Traditional Ecuadorian Chicken Soup might be a good choice, but it's quite filling and would not be wise before dinner. Our favorite dinner entree is Fidel's El Plato Cubano (black beans and rice with cheese, vegetables, and pork or chicken). We were barely able to finish it, and we can still remember every bite. We think Fidel has very good taste. But there's the Plato de Adventura (quesadilla, tamale, chicken, shrimp, guacamole, black beans and rice), Pescado di Mesias (telapia grilled in a tequila caper sauce with black beans and rice), and Josefina's Tamales (pork and cheese wrapped in corn husks served with black beans and rice). We have people in our group who fancy themselves quesadilla conneisseurs. They insisted on the Quesadillas de Chivo (goat cheese, green vegetables, Argentinean sauce and chicken in grilled flour tortillas served with black beans and rice). They think those might be the best quesadillas they've ever tasted. These are large plates quite full, but somehow you have to save room for dessert. There are several, all of which ought to be illegal, but the two someone at your table absolutely has to try are White Chocolate Raspberry Cheese Cake and Key Lime Ice Cream. We're not conneisseurs of mixed drinks, but we have acquaintances who are and they swear the Mango Margaritas here are among the best margaritas they've had anywhere.

Magnolia's is a very popular Italian eatery with 30 year veteran chef Tony Smith. His trademark is the Razorback, a sandwich of thinly sliced ham, applewood sliced bacon, pulled pork, jalapeno mayonnaise and tequila chipotle sauce, served on marbled rye. After a morning of taking the baths across the street and being lulled into a mellow mood, this ought to wake you up. Tony's Soup of the Day is usually worth a try. The menu features all the traditional items : Spaghetti, Fettuccini Alfredo, Eggplant Parmesan, Lasagna, Shrimp Scampi, Pasta Primavera, Cheese Ravioli, Chicken Parmesan, Chicken Piccata and Chicken Cacciatore. There's also a Steak Delancy (grilled and smothered in onions, bell peppers and mozzarella cheese), and for dessert a Blackberry Cobbler. Tony and Karen haven't stayed open all this time with sophisticated customers without knowing how to fix these dishes very, very well, and they do it at reasonable prices (entrees $10-14). A great stop for a third night in Hot Springs.
If you're only in Hot Springs one full day, you need to have lunch at BubbaLu's. It's on Central Avenue, right across from Bathhouse Row. This is more than a 1950s imitation. It IS a 1950s lunch counter. They've been preparing classic 1950s food on this grille and serving it at this counter for 54 years. The menu is basic : hamburgers, cheeseburgers, chili cheeseburgers, classic dogs, Polish dogs, chili dogs, Polish chili dogs, super dogs, chicken salad sandwiches, grilled cheese, chili, fries and homemade soup. Owners Rita and Lew Smith hand press the burger patties, blend the soup, scoop the ice cream into the milk, and brew the coffee right there, usually while you watch. They open at 11 each day, which is about when you need to get there, because by 11:30 the place starts filling up with locals who come every day for lunch. You can sit at a stool at the counter, but it gets pretty crowded and you'll have dogs and burgers being passed over your head. You can sit in a booth at the back -- if you get there in time. If not, you might want to get your order and eat it walking up the street or sitting at the little park around the corner. Lew and Rita make a big deal of the fact that they use biodegradable and compostable cups, plates and other disposables, almost all made from corn and potato byproducts. They use 100% fair trade organic coffee, and certified black angus beef. Bring cash -- it's quicker.
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