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Hot Springs

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Hot Springs, Arkansas is one of those charming little towns a lot of Americans have heard of but never thought of visiting. We think you should change your mind about that. This is a great place to spend a few nights. Whether you stop on your way to San Antonio or Big Bend, or come down specifically to visit Hot Springs, it will become one of your favorite overnight or long weekend spots.

The first reason you'll love Hot Springs is the Arlington Hotel (above, both photos). A landmark of a bygone era, this wonderful old resort dominates the town, looking right down the main street. Like a lot of old hotels we recommend, the Arlington has hosted presidents, movie stars, athletes, tycoons and gangsters. It is a national treasure, a thrill to stay in.

The second reason you'll love Hot Springs is the namesake hot mineral springs bubbling up from the deep artesian wells. Running down off the hillsides, these steaming vents are caused by volcanic action deep inside the earth. But many of them have been harnessed by magnificent bath houses along Main Street (above), and even within the Arlington Hotel. So you can enjoy a steaming mineral bath, massage therapy, and other spa treatments.
As you can see in the photo top right, The Arlington and Hot Springs nestle in a forested valley. Hiking trails go up in all directions, one heading out directly from the Arlington swimming pool, and several from points along Main Steeet. Three of these hiking trails wind their way up to this lookout tower. There has been a tower at this spot for 150 years, but it has been rebuilt and improved periodically, and this latest reconstruction provides a state of the art observation deck from which you can see the town, the national forest, the lakes to the South and the countryside for miles around. One of the traditional routines in the 19th and 20th centuries was to spend a week here, every morning "taking the baths," then after a good soaking and massage picking up a packed lunch from the Arlington and spending the rest of the day hiking. The combination of strenuous hiking, hot mineral baths and professional massage sent most people home feeling better than they had in a long time.

With so many people coming here for the baths and then needing something else to do all day, dozens of other attractions have arisen to occupy their time. One of these is Garvin Gardens. Run by the University of Arkansas, the Gardens is a botanical showcase, but also contains an outdoor model train layout, and this magnificent chapel, which is kept busy for weddings and other events.

There are museums, good restaurants, beaches, an amusement park, an alligator farm, several historic sites (such as the boyhood home of President Bill Clinton), boat rentals, fishing, horseback riding, and various stores and boutiques.

There's an awful lot of history in Hot Springs. Native Americans declared it a No Man's Land, so they could all come and benefit from the hot springs without fear of attack. Warriors thus put aside their differences while they relaxed in the steam baths. The first white man to discover the hot springs was DeSoto, the Spanish explorer, who thought it might be the long sought Fountain of Youth. Hot Springs was the first Spring Training site for major league baseball teams for 20 years before they moved to Florida. Babe Ruth and others of that era stayed at the Arlington and began and ended each day with a soak in the mineral waters. Gangsters took their cue from the Native Americans and declared this a neutral zone so they could "take the baths." Al Capone and several others maintained suites at the Arlington. Several presidents, most notably Franklin Deleanor Roosevelt, would come to Hot Springs several times a year for treatment. You really need to follow their example.

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